Our first night in Santa Fe was without incident other than the recommended restaurant was packed as it was a Saturday night and the wait time was far too long for these hungry travelers. We discovered a wonderful little sandwich shop near the hotel and that fit the bill perfectly.
Santga Fe - New Mexico Museum of Art
Morning came with a trip to the Santa Fe Plaza and all the craftsmen and shops that inhabit that area. We went through several galleries and and shops and marveled at the adobe architecture. I took a break from shopping, did some sketching and baked in the sun. We shared some tasty French pastry sitting on a bench in the plaza. Harper likes pastry too. Carol found some wonderful treasures and even some replacement decorative chilies as the ones from our last trip are no longer with us.
Carol shopping for chilis
We toured the area and were fascinated with all the old structures and just how inviting Santa Fe is. Supper was at Tortilla Flats, a fantastic restaurant with authentic Mexican fare, and it was delicious, Harper thought so too, she helped me with my quesadilla.
We found a fantastic Bakery, Sage Bakery and got a great sourdough loaf and pasterys.
Monday morning we turned north toward Taos, our home for a bit over a week. The drive along route 60 parallels the Rio Grande for most of the way, yup the same Rio Grande that ultimately forms the Texas - Mexico border, many miles to the south. We stopped along the way and Harper waded in up to her chest.
Along the Rio Grande
Some folks were fishing and we saw several rafting companies along the river, a popular sport here. It was an easy and relaxing drive. We felt as though we were gaining elevation all the time but as it turns out both Santa Fe and Taos are just at 7000 feet above sea level…Taos seem higher.
The landscape along the way, we found some side roads…
The house we have for our time here is an adobe house. It was hot when we got here and as we walked into the house we were thankful for the air conditioning, only to discover that there is no air condition in this house, it is naturally cool - a benefit of the adobe. Adobe houses are made from mud and straw and water, this makes strong and thick walls. The bricks are 4 inches high, by 10 inches wide and 14 inches long. They are mixed typically from the soil on the site. The mud is mixed with straw to strengthen the brick and then sun dried for a week or two. I gotta try this...
Even the fireplace was built of adobe.
Here in Taos and there has hardly been a minute when we weren't discovering something new. A real highlight was the Couse-Sharp House, E.I. Couse (rhymes with Taos) was an artist and originator of a Taos arts community. His house is a center for the Taos art community.
In the Couse studio, just as he left it.
This historic site has his studio intact along with other studios and work spaces. So wonderful to visit. And as it turned out the gallery there had a wonderful show hanging, of the Sun Brothers, three current Taos artists. It was the first time I have ever walked into a show to see that every paint, every one, was sold. The work was a fantastic display of art of the Southwest. Prices ranged from a low of $3500 to one piece that the minimum bid was $48,000, many were in the $20,00 - $30,000 price range - all sold. An inspiration to be sure. I bought the catalog, signed by all three artists, that is a good souvenir.
The catalog from the show - amazing work
The Rio Grande Gorge Bridge
We drove out to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge which provides an amazing of this narrow but deep gorge. The rio Grand cut a deep gash through the valley between the mountains. The plain here is many miles wide surrounded by some amazing mountains. This gorge splits it neatly. We walked out to the rim and took a lot of photos. From there we drove a few miles further and to see the Earthship Village, a gathering of homemade self sustaining dwellings. It looked like a scene from Star Wars. There were many unique and clever home here. We watched rain storms move across the plain while we drove in the sunshine.
One of the hundred or so ‘Earthships"‘
Taos has a plaza as well so there was some shopping to do. We visited the old historic church - San Francisco de Asis which has been a favorite of artists - photographed by Ansel Adams and painted by Georgia O'Keefe and now sketched by Eddie...
San Francisco De Asis, most photographed and painted church in America
We visited the Taos Pueblo, a World Heritage Site. This Pueblo site has been inhabited for over 1000 years, in the same buildings. The Puebloan people who live there are known as the Red Willow People, so named, as that is the name of the river that runs through the center of the Pueblo.
Taos Pueblo, this building has been occupied for over 1000 years
The residents have no electricity and no indoor plumbing at all. Water for all uses is gathered from the Red Willow River in buckets. Outhouses are away from the Pueblo for sanitation. Most cooking is done over open wood fires and in hornos (adobe beehive shaped ovens). We had a guide, Jaylin, a member of the tribe, who took us on a tour of the Pueblo and gave us an overview of the history of the Pueblo people through their long time here.. Although there are only about 50 year round residents that occupy the Taos Pueblo, the Red Willow People number over 2000.
An amazing place
This is a very sacred and special place, it is so comforting to know that it will continue to be preserved and that the Red Willow People are continuing to thrive. Many tribal craftsmen had their shops open, the people are very open and willing to share their experiences.
Harper was welcome in the Pueblo and had a good time sniffing everything.
It was difficult to leave the Pueblo but it was time to keep moving. Later that day we made the trip around the 'Enchanted Circle' - an 85 mile road trip that encircles the mountains north of Taos. This route travels through many different eco system as we went through a lot over the elevation changes.
Aspens are beginning to turn colors
The highest pass was Bobcat Pass at 9,820 feet in the Carson National Forest, and many of the Aspens were beginning to turn the wonderful golden Aspen color. We got stuck for almost half an hour by some road construction which was ever so delightful, but then on to Eagles Nest, a cute little town in a valley with a lake.
Road construction in Carson National Forest.
A then to Red River, which was in a valley, and made me wonder about the song. . . - more sketching and more shopping - and $6 a scoop for ice cream. It was a very nice way to spend an afternoon.
That is me sketching in Red River
Back at ‘home’ that night Carol made some wonderful chili which set us up nicely for cribbage. The following day we had a bit of a late breakfast, packed some snacks and headed off to go on a hike along the western rim of the Rio Grande. It was quite a place, as the hike was high on the cliffs, but not so close to the edge to scare Carol, but you could tell we were up was high.
Carol and Harper at the trailhead.
The landscape was just awesome and the sky was putting on its best face with high billowing clouds. There were some ups and downs but not too bad for this old crew. It was hot and dry and Harper was a trooper. We stayed hydrated, had a snack and I didn’t fall down, so it was a fine hike.
Well above the Rio Grande
Afterwards back in Taos we found ice cream, and everyone was happy, Harper loves vanilla with whipped cream. The cribbage games continue every evening and as of last evening, we are all tied up each winning 10 games since we left. Cribbage was followed up by a nice fire in the fireplace and apple pie and ice cream.
Harper resting by the fire.
Today we visited the Farmers Marker, a weekly event on Saturdays in the city’s Municipal Building parking lot. Such a nice variety of things, and things we just don’t see back home. Carol got some piñon pine lip balm and of course we got pastries. I wish we were here for a week longer if only to shop for local veggies, baked goods, eggs and meats. This was a really wonderful farmers market. We also revisited the plaza area as there is always more to see.
So much freshness.
We also toured the Kit Carson home and museum, which was interesting enough. He was an interesting guy, married three times and had 8 kids and managed to become a folk hero, trapper and scout. After a few more galleries, lots of good conversation, a bit of shopping and we made it back to the ranch for a late afternoon of relaxing and getting the blog done.
Kit Carson’s Home
Below is a gallery of images you may enjoy of other things along the route.
Click on and image to enlarge
